Hi, I am new to this forum and I have already started planning my lighting design but I am trying to decide on the type of bulb (MR16 vs PAR36) for my lighting. Which bulb should I go with? In my research, I saw the the MR16 have brighter, more confined beams with less ambient light radiating from the main pool of light (http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpip/lightinganswers/mr16/advantages.asp). Does anyone have experience with these two types of bulbs? And which one would you recommend and why?
I was waiting to hear if others have opinions on this. PAR36 lamps were the first bulbs used in landscape lighting, and their popularity and usefulness become less and less each year. First, the LED versions are very expensive and they're bigger than they need to be. MR16's are the way to go.
I used MR 16's and MR11's almost exclusively on the font of my house (except for path lights) and the result is beautiful. Once I figure out how to take a decent night photo, I'll post.
Ruth, have you seen my article on landscape lighting photography? https://www.voltlighting.com/articl...e-lighting-photography/p/article-photo-tips-1
I have and initially I wasn't able to have much success, but I spent more time with your article and my Nikon for Dummies book (I have a Nikon D3300) and my tripod - which I have had for years and never used, and the results last night were very encouraging. I'm still getting hot spots in the pictures which aren't nearly as obvious in person, so any suggestions welcome, but will post a few pictures on the thread I started earlier so as not to hijack this one
The human eye accepts a much wider range of brightness levels than cameras are able to capture. It's a property called dynamic range. The way I get around it for photos is the following: Minimize the differences in brightness in the design. That means using minimal light levels that still fulfill the goals of the design. The biggest mistake that inexperienced designers make is to over-light. If you're uncertain about the optimal light level, buy some extra bulbs at various wattages and test them. Aiming and positioning. Nearly everyone makes the mistake of aiming spotlights so their hot spots are too low on the object. Tilt fixtures back until their hot spots stretch from near the ground to the top of the object. Also, experiment moving the fixture closer or farther from the object. Diffusion. Lamps with wider beam angles are more diffuse than tighter ones. Shifting from a 38º lamp to a 60º lamp will make the hot spot more diffuse and easier to control. Things to do at the shoot. Advanced tips. Use neutral density filters to decrease brightness. You can buy an inexpensive sheet of neutral density filter material, cut from it 2" circles that you can set on the fixture lens. Use one or more of these circles to decrease brightness without affecting the beam angle. I keep a bunch of these circles in my camera case. Bracket your shots. See my article for this tip. If I have really bad hotspots I can't control, then I will sometimes expose the frame at 3 to 5x the normal exposure. Of course, you would need to then layer these shots in Photoshop - not very easy. Enjoy!
Even the most stylish interiors of a home will never be complete without proper lighting. LED light bulbs can be used extensively for your home as it lights up outdoor area and adds beauty to your décor. It can glorify landscapes/gardens and dress up patios and decks. You can use it to make garlands of light, decorate pathways, as Christmas decorations or jazz up your home’s entrance.
